Saturday, 6 October 2012

Pie of life

It took a little bit of effort to leave Grants. Not because it was such a wonderful town that you simply couldn't. More because of the previous late night with its torch light riding and midnight feasting, combined with a need to sort out continuing mechanical issues as my rear tyre was flat once more when I got up. I managed to find the goat head which had done for my new tube and pull it out (New Mexico is the land of flats, the goat head thorns are notorious) and went for a breakfast of tacos, enchiladas, and burritos.

From Grants it's roughly six days riding to Silver City. The only place in between after two days riding, where I am now, is Pie Town. But there are no grocery stores. So I went to Wal-Mart bought some food and posted half of it to Pie Town post office. Wal-Mart also turned out to sell slimed inner tubes and protective tape which was a real bonus.

By the time all this was done though and an extra milkshake at Dennys had been consumed we didn't hit the road until 3pm. Our speed was not exactly great either. Add to this our gawping at cliffs above us (and one particularly impressive natural arch), and Ben having the now routine New Mexican flat tyre, it's no surprise we found ourselves riding into a lovely sunset. So once more we were riding in the dark and sliding round on the ridiculously sandy road in fits of blind laughter at each other's difficulties. Eventually we just threw up our tents on the side of the road.

The next day we didn't have far to go to Pie Town and yes they do sell pie, so we were looking to knock off the thirty miles in time for lunch. Well we made it for late lunch. Sandy roads slowed us down and it was Collins turn for the flat tyre. But once we made it here what a strange, cool and unique place. There isn't a lot here, a small town of around 45 people, but they do have two great pie shops. But what makes this place so amazing for divide riders and hikers is a place called the toaster house.

The toaster house is owned by the lovely Nita who raised her family in it. She always allowed divide types to camp in the garden, use the shower etc. Then in 2006 Nita moved down the road to another house and turned the house into a free hostel for divide riders and hikers. On the porch at the back is a fridge which always has beer and pizza in. There are rooms with beds, a bathroom with a hot shower. A music system which can even be pumped out on to the porch. Couches everywhere, a small basketball court, and the traveling paraphernalia of hundreds of visitors. In short this place is uber cool.

Even better is the timing of our arrival. With Maarten arriving just after myself, Collin and Ben, there were four of us. But three more divide riders, Anders, Kate and Lee also turned up. Fun times.

I have eaten a lot of pie in this town too. In the last two days I have had vanilla creme pie, blueberry pie, cherry pie, black berry pie, banana pie and a piece of a whole pumpkin pie we bought so all us Europeans could have our first ever slice.

Megan who works at the pie shop has been really cool too, not only fetching us extra beer, but coming round last night and letting us sample some of her home made meads. In short I think all of us will be sad to leave here, with the end of the route getting closer and closer.

We had an interesting new lodger last night, Johnny, who seems to have left Virginia two years ago and been cycling since while growing dreads and turning his bike into some kind of post apocalyptic beast. Anyway I will put up a picture of his bike so you can see what I mean.

Anyway I guess it's time to put the pie down and head for Silver City, from there it's just two days ride to the end of the route!

Update: still in Pie Town, just can't leave behind the awesome toaster house and the amazing pies. Been back to pie-o-neer and added maple pecan to the list along with rhubarb ginger and blueberry ginger press this morning!

















5 comments:

  1. Thanks for leaving some of your good biker energy behind. Always love having "cool" CDT'ers in town. Fun to see how many ZERO daze they take...and how many pies they consume!

    Happy Trails,
    Kathy "Pie-O-Neer Pielady

    ReplyDelete
  2. Fantastic accounts Matt. Pie Town sounds great - not at all like I imagined Wigan to be like :)

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  3. Kathy, we all had such a great time there. How can such a small place contain so much fun.... And great pie!

    Stuart, I tried to explain the idea of a Wigan kebab, but they don't even really have much in the way of any savoury pies...much less four pukka pies on a stick!

    ReplyDelete
  4. Kathy, we all had such a great time there. How can such a small place contain so much fun.... And great pie!

    Stuart, I tried to explain the idea of a Wigan kebab, but they don't even really have much in the way of any savoury pies...much less four pukka pies on a stick!

    ReplyDelete
  5. Kathy, we all had such a great time there. How can such a small place contain so much fun.... And great pie!

    Stuart, I tried to explain the idea of a Wigan kebab, but they don't even really have much in the way of any savoury pies...much less four pukka pies on a stick!

    ReplyDelete